Monday, February 28, 2011

Where ARE they??.....28 February 2011

....and what do they do....




River crossing to Hairy Lemon


Please replace.."I am here" with "L&S are there" :-)


As planned Hairy Larry & Sharon went to Hairy Lemon! An island in the middle of the White Nile (info below).

Sharon's chest/ribs still hurt and bruises are slowly getting better. I must admit that I wondered if those fancy, blue BMW "space suits" (protective riding gear) were really worth the money or was it one of those "name brand" foefies? Well it turned out that The Space Suit (respectfully in capital letters :-))protected Sharon from serious injuries, especially to her knee!

They hope to pick up the bike tomorrow and taking it easy to Kenya.

THE HAIRY LEMON
The Irish owners of this Ugandan retreat along the Nile River outside of Kampala named the place after a favorite pub in Dublin.An island archipelago on the magnificent Nile, the Hairy Lemon Island provides secluded bandas, family cottages, dormitories, and camping areas tucked under canopies of rain forest. The Nile flows in shallow eddies, between the islands, creating natural pools for swimming, volleyball and is also a sort after spot for sports fishermen and bird watchers from all over the world.

NILE
The Nile is the longest river in the world, flowing 6695km (4184 miles). There are two main rivers which flow from the south into what is referred to as the Nile Proper, the Blue Nile, and the White Nile. The White Nile is the longer of the tributaries, but the Blue Nile is the main source of water and fertile soil. A third river, the Atbara, flows into the Nile just north of Khartoum in the Sudan but it contributes less than one percent to total water flow.
The White Nile is so named because of the light coloured clay sediment suspended in the water giving the river a light gray colour.
The White Nile contributes about sixteen percent of the total water flow in the Nile. This doesn't sound like much, however the White Nile as a more steady flow of water which keeps the Nile proper from running dry in April and May, supplying about eighty percent of the Nile's water during these months.
The origins of the White Nile are in deep central Africa, as far south as southern Rwanda. The river flows north through Tanzania, Lake Victoria, Uganda and into Southern Sudan.

The falls at Lake Tana, Ethiopia are the source of the Blue Nile.
The Blue Nile flows about 1,400 km (850 miles) to Khartoum from Lake Tana 1,800 meters above sea level in the Ethiopian Mountains. Lake Tana floods every summer from June to September, feeding the Blue Nile. This flood is extremely important because it is only during this time that erosion and transportation of the fertile silt occurs. This fertile soil is what gave life to the Nile Valley.

The White and Blue Nile Rivers merge near the Sudanese capital of Khartoum, becoming the Nile proper which itself flows in two distinct parts. An 1336 km (830 mile) long stretch of the Nile flows through the desert allowing irrigation and agriculture in these areas. Along this stretch, the river passes through a series of cataracts causing the gentile river to change to violent rapids making some areas unnavigable. The rocks are composed of hard igneous rock forming a natural boundary between what was known as Upper and Lower Nubia.
The second part is from Lake Nasser, the world's second largest man-made lake. Lake Nasser is where the Nile's waters are held back by the Aswan High Dam constructed in 1970: at which time the Nile's annual floods which had occurred for thousands of years, ceased.

The Nile continues northward from the dam for about 805 km (500 miles) to Cairo and on northward to form the Nile Delta composed of silt fifty to seventy-five feet deep from the Ethiopian plateau. The Nile mud is perhaps the most fertile soil on the planet. It is composed of about 0.1 percent Nitrogen, 0.2 percent phosphorus anhydrides and 0.6 percent potassium.
The Delta spans some 22015 sq. km (8,500 sq. miles) and is fringed in its coastal regions by lagoons, wetlands, lakes and sand dunes.

Throughout the delta there are high points of mounds of clay and silt rising high enough to escape flooding. Egyptologists have found evidence of very early settlements in these areas. Interestingly, there is an ancient Egyptian creation myth of the world having begun on a mound of earth which emerged from the waters.
The annual flooding of the Nile had taken place for thousands of years. Waters of the Blue Nile would begin to rise when the heavy rainfall season began in Ethiopia. The floodwaters would reach the Sudan by May.
In July, the floods reach the Aswan High Dam in Egypt. The Nile's water continues to increase. By August, averages are over twenty feet at Khartoum. The Nile peaks about mid September.

Lake Nasser was created with the construction of the Aswan Dam from spillover. This increases especially during flood times because then, the Blue Nile hold the White Nile back.

The Nile's levels rose throughout the 1990's causing additional spilling over of water eastward into the Sahara Desert and by 1998 had formed the Toshka Lakes.
The ancient Egyptians called the Nile “Aur” or “Kem” which meant black, after the fertile black soil brought to them by the river and it was around the Nile that their lives focused. Even the ancient Egyptian calendar was based on the Nile, composed of twelve months of thirty days each. Their year was divided into three seasons, each based on cycles of the river.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

8 pm 22 feb

We have now travelled just over 9000 Km.  Sharons bike parts will hopefully be sorted out tom, and we will head for the Hairy lemon, and Jinja, om one bike, until her bike is fixed.

L

11 Am, Tues 22 Feb

Just loaded pics, and trying to work things out.  We have had a local bike mechanic here, and I think have decided to try to ship the neccessary parts here from SA, so that we can continue.  Waiting for a parts list that we will need, and prices from SA.  Will then ship them here, fix, and carry on.

Sharon is feeling better, if a little stiff and sore, and bruised in strange places.  She is taking the odd pain tablet, and anti-inflamatory.  We will at least have a chance to rest, and might then move around a bit, as there is lots to do and see in the area, ie nile white water rafting, jet boating, bungi jumping,  etc.  There is a place called Jinja just ahead down the road, so we will go there, probably.

Hopefully we will be on the road again a about a weeks time.

L
 Breakfast at the old German Fort at Buharamulo

 Rickety bridge crossing at Bukoba
 Main ferry on Lake Victoria
 Foot operated pump at the Uganda border
 Bicycles are loaded with everything you can imagine.
 Have a look at the Uganda cattle!
 View from our room over Albertina Rift Valley - Queen Victori National Park and Lake Edward.  Kingfisher Lodge a great place to stay.
 Our chalet from the side, bathroom at the bottom and bedroom and patio at the top.
 Game viewing from the national road in Queen Victoria National Park.  Once again fees to enter the parks are high.
 Our next camping spot, not so great outside the police station with the entire village watching us.
 Ringting not looking so good!
 Typical road conditions trhough the villages, the lodge that we turned down is the double storied building on the left.  The room that was offered to us was at the back, about 2m x 2m no window and a door that gets padlocked either inside or outside.  This was the land lady's room so the prize of the rooms and all her clothes were still hanging on nails around the room. Our tent was bigger and a lot more comfortable.

How many people plus a bicycle are on this piki piki?
 Lovely wet clay roads, under construction in Tanzania, on the way to Singida
 We are having lunch on the new road that is being built
 Long stretches of natural forest
 Hazy view of Lake Victoria with Rubondo National Park Island in the distance.  We have battled with haze all the way limiting our views because of dust and fires.
 Traveling on the new section of road, Chinese are in Tanzania building roads all over the place but very slowly and the roads look like they are very badly built.
Masai parading for the tourist along side the road.  Each photo costs you at least $10!

 Beehives are found all the way.  Saw a lot of honey production.
 Richard Goodhead (richardsrun.co.za) along side the on his way to Arusha.  It was really great to bump into a fellow South African and have a chat to him.  Here he is on the phone to Radio Jacaranda.
 A very wet departure, leaving Stanley's Motel in Singida.  We had very little rain that day!!
Long horned cattle found all along the way in Tanzania and still seeing lots of them in Uganda.

Monday, February 21, 2011

5.30 pm

Will post pics in the morning, and will see about bike.  S determined to carry on, so will see.  She is ok, and has been very strong, has gone to rest now.

Till Tom.

L

21 Feb

We have arrived at a Backpackers in Kampala after a few very tough days.

We left Bakoba On Lake Victoria where we met a South African working in Tanzania and Uganda by the name of Dennis Schoeman, brother in law to Vince!!  We were heading for the Uganda border afterhaving spoken to Dennis and a number of ex-pats working in the area about the political situation in Uganda while elections were under way.  Reports were good so we headed to the border, reached a funny little border post in a very poor area by the name of Mutukula.  We found a big difference between the villages in Tanzania and Uganda, Uganda seems to be more posperous with a lot of formal agriculture and none of the huge tracts of dessert and erosion from over grazing that we found in Tanzania.  you could build a house in the canyon left by the erosion in places.

We were heading for the Queen Victoria National Park as we had heard that it is one of the few national parks that will let motorbikes in.  Travelled hard to a camp called Jacana Camp on the shores of Lake Albert, very nice but way out of our price range and no motor bikes allowed in the park!! So now we were 11km into the park on our bikes just getting dark and we needed somewhere to sleep.  So we headed out and found a really nice lodge called Kingfisher Lodge and had of the best showers there since we left home - they don"t know how to make a decent shower at most lodges in Africa!! 

We decided to keep moving if we could not get into the park and head for Murchinson Falls, we bumped into a German couple along side the road, they were on two bicycles through Uganda and also felt that everything in Africa is too expensive with everything in dollars, so not just us poor South Africans!  They warned us of a gravel road, about 200km ahead of us which is in a very bad state of repair, and they were not wrong!!

Traffic on this road was really busy and it got worse and worse as we went as did the road.  Larry was in front with me fairly close behind as we had just caught the edge of a rain storm so the dust was not too bad.  I called Larry on the intercom to say that the locals were fascinated with his bike and watch him wizz past and don't see me coming up behind.  No sooner that had I said that when I came to a gentle rise with a bike on the wrong side coming straight towards me, I hooted and then he got into a wobble and I swerved hard to miss him but all too late, he was still watching Larry behind him at this stage and we hit head on!!  Larry was down in the valley and took a while to turn on the narrow road and only after I failed to appear.  I was down in the road and so was the bicylce and the locals started to gather.  I must be honest I was surprised at how helpful and pleasant they were at this stage, we were asked not to move anything until the police got there.  the OC of the local station arrived on his bike, Larry had arrived back and I had gingerly picked myself up, a very sore knee, wrist and chest, the two on the bicycle, one had a broken arm and the other a very small cut in his groin.  All very lucky to be alive.  And then the negioations started, we need to pay for transport, treatment, local help, etc, etc.  The hospital was 12km away and we must pay $100 to get the two locals  there!!  We were very lucky to have the most patient and polite policeman there in the whole of Uganda, he very calmly dispersed the crowd and calmed eveyone down and told the taxi driver that he was to take the two injured people to hosptial for 50 000 Uganda Shillings about R150.  We also had to give another 50 000 shillings to the locals for helping.  We now had to proceed to the police station in convoy, my bike is badly damaged in the front, mianly cosmetic to the tank covers, mud gaurds and then the head light is gone and one idicator hanging by a thread, but still running, although the steerinf was jamming a lot, against all the broken bits. 
And it is now raining hard and we are all drenched through.

The family of boys were called and we were told we could do one of two things, either pay the family or take the matter to the courts which will take any number of months and we were very clearly told it doesn't matter what happened it is our fault as were are international people and have no rights in Uganda.  It would be much better to pay the family and get the matter finished.

The family arrived and demanded $700 for treatment and transport, what did we pay Comesa insurance for?  We were told that we would have to pay and my bike could not travel that late at night so we would have to spend the night at the local guest house.  Across the road, was the guesthouse, but was more like a prison, with tiny cells, and a single bed.  So, we rather opted to put up our tent behind the police station.  Remember, this is Africa.  Pics will explain more.  With hundreds of onlookers, we put up the tent, shooing the crowds back to make room.  I then climbed in, while Larry continued to pack away etc.  Vincent, the policeman came and chased the community away.  There was absolutely nothing there, no water, toilets no lighting of any sort.  We spent a very long lonely night, in the back yeard of the huts,  with the pigs and cattle around our tent all night and lots of village noise, we were up bright and early to pack our tent and get ready to pay the family and move on.  We were very surprised at how pleased the family were and we were told that this was more money than they could expect in a year, the father was smiles all around!!  We left the village with still 90km on gravel heading for Kampala and as far from that village as possible in one day.

We arrived here after a long hot ride to the normal chaotic African traffic and we are both very tired and hungry and decided to take any place that looked half way decent, so have landed up at a backpackers with a nice big soft double bed!!  We also have free internet, so will have a chance to rest, catch up on pics, and try to work out how to get the bike fixed.  The bruises will fix themselves!

Going to rest now, more soon

S

Monday, 21 February 2011



A bicycle rider was trying to keep out of Larry's way, but turned right in front of Sharon's bike! Sharon's got a sore knee, wrist & chest - thankfully all superficial!! The person on the bicycle got a broken wrist, but all has been taken care of. The bike need some work done to it and they will carry on too Kampala today.

As always the case in Africa, the whole incident went along with a lot of bureaucracy ,which I'm sure must have been tiring, stressful & traumatic to Larry & Sharon, not to mention the accident itself. Please keep them in your prayers today, light a candle, send positive energy or whatever way you choose to express yourself through - for safe travels, peace of mind, helpful & skilled people to do the work on "Ringtinting" (..spelling, Sharon's bike) & to be received with love, friendliness & hospitality.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Uganda, 20 February 2011





"For magnificence, for variety of form and color, for profusion of brilliant life - plant, bird, insect, reptile, beast - for the vast scale … Uganda is truly The Pearl of Africa."
Sir Winston S. Churchill. 1908

Situated in the heart of Africa, astride the equator, Uganda is the land where tropical rain forest meets rolling savannah, where shimmering lakes meet snowcapped mountains, and where the mighty Nile, the longest river in the world starts its journey from Lake Victoria to the Mediterranean sea.

Home to over half the world's population of the Mountain Gorillas and a host of other primate species and a wealth of other wildlife, African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Giant forest Hog, Lion, Leopard, Uganda Kob, Duiker, baboons, hippos, crocodiles & African Elephant. It is a microcosm of African wildlife and environments. It is in Uganda that you find the Rwenzoris, the fabled "Mountains of the Moon"; Murchison Falls; the Bwindi Impenetrable forest. From the naturalist point of view, this tiny nation is one of the most biologically diverse areas of Africa. With more than 1,000 species of birds, many of them characteristic of the central African rainforests, Uganda is a birder's paradise.

Friday, February 18, 2011

18 Feb 2011

Friday 18 Feb 2011
We left Buharamulo, Old Fort etc at 9 am this morning, heading for Rubondo Nat Park, which is a large island, just offshore in the South Western corner of Lake Victoria. About 75 km, on a mixture of roads. Started off with good road under construction, then old small gravel, then almost a track, past small villages, and people who run when they see a white face. Looks of surprise greeted us all over. Suddenly, as we approached the lake – surprise!!! A tarr road!!!! Not shown on map or GPS. We travelled along that for about 15 km, turned off, and found our way to the end of the road, and lakeshore, where there were a few fishing boats, and lots of people, none of whom could speak English. Eventually, one guy phoned the national park, a few km across the water from us. Yes, they could send a boat - $100. Yes, accom was 20$ per person. Please bring your own food. Excluding park fees. What about the bikes?? Nowhere safe to park them. So we turned back, went to the newly discovered tarr road, and continued up the Western lake shore. Eventually we got onto another section of tarr, under construction in places. Lots of mud on the detours. Our GPS indicated that some sections of this road where to be travelled under armed escort only. Sharon had a small fall, when we got to a mud patch when her front tyre slipped out. Left foot a bit sore, but ankle etc all fine. We carried on from there, to a fairly large town, called Bukoba, on the shore. Accom was not easy to find – after checking two “campsites”, a few hotels, we settled into the Bukoba Beach Hotel – R150 per night, incld breakfast again, hot water, clean, on the lake shore, with a view out of our window, looking at a large ship, which is the ferry that travels around the lake.
The terrain today was a lot better, with some sections of wild forest / bush, where one could possibly still expect to see some game. Not for long though, and soon we were back into populated areas along the lake, although never over-populated, or over exploited, like Lake Malawi. Visibility has been very poor, with high cloud, very hazy, some mist and some scattered rain. Temperature has been fantastic for riding, being neither hot nor cold. Unfortunately, the haze is making the pictures very dull. While riding, we saw land in the far distance, and looking at the scale on the GPS, I realized that this was only an island, about 1/10 th of the way across the lake! This thing is huge!
Just had a very nice hot shower, and will go down to the beach for a walk later.
One of the very interesting things to see is the number of small motorbikes and bicycles that are always around. Anything and everything gets carried on these. The Piki Piki’s are often taxis, apparently a cheap form of transport for the locals. We often see groups of 5 or 10 of them in the villages – the local taxi rank. Beds, crates of chickens, whole families, goats, a LARGE live pig, large bags of charcoal, up to 6 x 25l containers – full – all get carried on the bicycles and small piki piki’s. Unbelievable! L

18 February 2011





FACTS:

Kagera Region is located in the northwestern corner of Tanzania. Bukoba, Kagera Region's capital, is a fast growing town with an attractive waterside setting. Situated on the shore of Lake Victoria, Bukoba lies only 1 degree south of the Equator and is Tanzania's second largest port on the lake.


The climate is sunny and warm most of the year. Evenings can get cool, but never cold. Rains occur almost every morning from March through May. It almost never rains in the afternoons.


Bukoba has a population of about 100,000 people, and the Kagera region over one million. The main ethnic group of the region are the Bahaya, who speak Ruhaya. (Most people in town speak Swahili, and basic English is understood at most shops.) The main occupation is agriculture, the main commercial product is coffee, and the main food crop and dietary staple is matoke (large green bananas that are roasted or steamed). There are many NGOs, volunteers and other wazungu (ex-pats) in Bukoba and the surrounding area. A few travellers pass through from Mwanza (overnight by ferry) and Kampala (six hours by bus).

Thursday, February 17, 2011

17 February 2011

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device

17 Feb 2011

17 February 2011
Woke up this morning to the sound of heavy rain, just the sound we wanted to hear. It is really lovely riding in heavy tropical rain!! We went down for breakfast at our very smart hotel and had a choice of spaghetti, pancakes, beans or stew and could order eggs, tea, coffee and juice. Wasn’t bad so we had a good breakfast knowing that we probably wouldn’t be stopping for lunch. By the time we had finished breakfast the rain had just about stopped and so we decided to get going. While we were loading and packing the bikes the woman from the hotel were all there to have a look at me and a good giggle, when I asked what they were laughing at they told me I looked very smart! In very muddy riding boots and dirty riding pants, I think it is so far removed from anything that they could think of doing that I must seem as though I come from a different planet.
So we left Singida with a light drizzle heading towards Lake Victoria and a camping site called Old Fort, near the town Biharamulo, near the south west corner of Lake Victoria. The roads were good for most of the way (Chinese have been very busy building and upgrading roads) but there were long sections of detour where they are busy with the new roads, but the gravel roads were not bad at all. We have now passed out of Maasi Land and into an area where the cattle look to be in much better condition and have the biggest horns we have ever seen. (Hopefully we will be able to post some pics at some stage soon) We also found that the last 100km or so we passed through some very nice natural forest, this for the first time since we have in Tanzania out of a national park.
We arrived at the Old Fort, an old German fort built in the 1800. They have added little rondavels and a network of rooms to try and get it to generate and income. Unfortunately they have spoilt the historical value of original fort. We have hired one of the rondavels, en suite, for about R50 for the night. The lady running the accommodation went into town for us and bought vetkoek and Cokes and that is what we had for our supper – all the vitamins that we need! Unfortunately the locals don’t know any of the history about the fort or the surrounds.
We had a long day, left at 9.30am and arrived here at about 5.30pm and did about 570km. Tomorrow we hope to travel about 70km to a small island in the south western corner of Lake Victoria, called Rubondo, which is a national park in the lake. Just depends on what the facilities and if we like it we may spend a few days there. Not sure of what our comms will be like, maybe non-existant. From there we will go to Bukoba higher up the lake and then into Uganda, hopefully to Queen Elizabeth National Park and Lake Edward.
L & S

17 Feb 2011

Woke up to heavy rain this morning and it doesn't look like it is going to stop, not sure if we will move today! Slept well apart from some noise from an adjoining BnB and we were woken very early by some chap on a loud speaker, but we decided to stay in bed!

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

16 Feb 2011

6 pm, 16 Feb
We are in Singida – about 400 km South West of Arusha, en Route to Uganda. Tomorrow will be another long day – in fact they will all be long, until we get to Queen Victoria National Park, Uganda. We hope to stop somewhere on Lake Victoria, as we will be passing to the South, and then West of Lake Vic.
Today was another riding day. We left Karatu – the last town before entering Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation area. We left there at about 10 am this morning, and rode hard until nearly 5.30 pm. This was only 320 km, but 160 of those were on rough gravel roads, mainly along the construction of a new tarr road, so at times very rough, muddy and wet. Other times we rode along on the new hardpack surface, which was great. Another quick roadside picnic was today’s meal, although we should eat again tonight. I think we both enjoyed the riding, even on the bad roads, as one could actually ride, as opposed to just sitting steering the bike. It was also great to be moving again, knowing that the unknown is waiting. We have been warned that this is a non tourist area, with few facilities catering to tourists, so we are at the Stanley motel, a local hotel, in Singida. It seems that a lot of overland / travelers make use of these local hotels / guesthouses along the way. Our room is clean, tidy, has a tv, and en suite shower and toilet – although with no water at the moment – that will hopefully be back later. We pay less for a room tonight, than we paid for camping last night!
Tanzania is a disappointment in many ways. We have seen thousands of Landcruiser and landrover safari vehicles, all filled with international tourists, from far and wide. The campsite was noisy, with overland trucks and groups arriving and leaving at all hours, and we find that campsite etiquette is non existent. The entire local population sees money everywhere, and everything is geared to milk the foreigners to the hilt. Along the roads, one sees traditional Masai, with blankets and spears, ear rings etc. Until you realize that they are all standing next to the road, or with the scrawny cattle, waiting to pounce on any tourist that might feel the need to take a picture. The whole thing felt very false, and didn’t leave a great taste. As with the whole thing about park fees, vehicle hire, etc. But I believe the Himba in Northern Namibia are doing the same thing now.
We passed a strange fellow, pushing a 3 wheel baby pushchair today. So, we turned to say hello, and it turned out to be Richard Goodhead, from Cape Town, who left from Cape Agulhas in October, and has run / walked all the way here, to get to Kilimanjaro!!! www.richardsrun.co.za Have a look! When we stopped to say hello, he was in the process of talking to Radio Jacaranda in SA - so he told them – live on air, that he had just met Larry and Sharon from SA!!! He plans to run the Kili marathon, and then climb it as well. Fortunately, he only had about 160km to go!!! Nearly there. Some days he did up to 70 km per day! At 12 today, he had already done 40 km. Fit fellow!
We were amazed at how the countryside has changed in the 3 days since we last we went up to Karatu. Everything now has a green tinge, although still very short. The rain over the last few days has made a big difference, and it seems as though we will be riding in more rain soon, as it builds up every day.
The bad news is that we never saw the damn mountain!! It has been extremely hazy, with a lot of cloud around, which kept Kili well hidden. Oh well, its only a big lump of rock.
Ngorongoro was great, worthwhile, even at the cost, as it is one of those once in a lifetime things that one must do. The game was very tame, the birdlife was good, the grass was still short, so one could see the game easily. Lots of buff, hyaena, wildebeest, gazelle, zebra. 2 prides of lion, 1 cheetah, a couple of ele, rhino in the distance – so I suppose 4 of the big 5 in a day, plus hippo. The road down, and up from the crater was interesting, with a steep escarpment, although the views were obscured to a large extent, by haze and misty clouds. Thanks, Albie, for helping to arrange the safari vehicle.!
We have just got back to our room after supper, which was on a small veranda outside to hotel. The streets vibrant, people, Piki-pikis, (motor bikes ) 4 x 4’s, red, green, blue florescent lights, music, etc. The food was good – steak and chips – how unusual for L&S!!! Just before the meal was served, our waiter arrived with a small bottle of handwash, a bowl, and a kettle of warm water – all to wash our hands!!! Not sure if this is because we are so dirty from our days riding?? The price even included a banana and a slice of mango. Price?? – 19000 Tan shilling - about R90 or 14 $, for steak and chips, 2 beers, and a 1.5 l bottle of water.
We now realize are in true Africa. A few days ago, riding towards Arusha and Karatu, we saw dead genets on the road. Near Karatu, a Hyeana had been killed by a car. In the campsite, we could hear hyeana at night. Now, we are out of tourist areas completely, and experiencing the real Africa, although there is still no wildlife, and people and villages along the roads, it is not the same as in Malawi. Here, the people obviously do not see many tourists, and the calls of money, money along the roads are not there.
L

16 February 2011

FACTS:
There's a Singida region, Singida district, Singida town & Singida lake! The area surrounding Singida has two lakes, lake Singida and Lake Kindai, which attracts pelicans, Flamingoes and wild birds. Huge granite boulders also dot the region. The locals also take their goats and cows to drink water at the lakes. Singida is classed as semi-arid with no extremes of temperature. It is dry most of the time with total annual rainfall of 660mm, falling in two periods of the year. At night and in the early morning it can be quite cool. Common tribes found here are Wanyiramba and Wanyaturu






Singida - just above the word Tanzania


Tuesday, February 15, 2011

The Rainy Season

The rains are only supposed to start in March, but they seem to have come very early. We are having big thunder storms every evening! And cold wet mornings.

15 Feb 2011

15 February 2011
We left Mickey’s Lodge on Thursday 10 February, heading for Arusha.  We only had about 478km to travel but Ron had already warned us that it is an eight and a half hour trip.  So back to the ferry and crossed the river at Pangani and then gravel road for about 50 – 60km back to the tar.  Road was not great but managed to maintain a fair speed.  We passed countless villages and we were lucky in that the new way of making money out of the white man in Africa is to charge and unofficial toll to pass through each village, but we managed to catch them sleeping!
A very long hot drive through some of the most barren and badly eroded land that we have seen so far on some reasonable tar.  You can never really get a decent speed up because of all the villages where you have to slow down to 50km with serious suspension wrecking speed bumps at the beginning and end of each village so the trip was long, hot and tiring.  We arrived in Arusha to find that the traffic, while not great, was nothing in comparison to the Dar traffic.  We managed to find Wayne and Birgit’s home on the outskirts very easily.  We had a wonderful stay with them and their two children, Sean and Ciara for the next three nights.  It was great just to relax and get a whole lot of little things done before we started travelling again.  Thank you to the Hendry family for such a lovely time in your home.
On Friday night we had dinner at the local club, this was very full with ex-pats and we even knew someone there – Marius Nel who writes for African Pilot – a very small Africa.  It was interesting to see how large the white ex-pat community is in Arusha.
We left Arusha on Sunday morning heading for the Ngorgoro Crater and a possible trip into the Serengeti.  Birgit had done some research for us and we found that for the ordinary man in the street travelling in Tanzania is unbelievable expensive, the cost for a trip into the crater would work out as follows: $200 for a vehicle, $50 per person, vehicle hire $160 and then into Serrengeti $150 for the vehicle, $50 per person and $30 camping and when we come out again, we will pay $200 for the vehicle, $50 per person.  So we decided to try and find some other tourist to get together with and hire a car so that the costs for the crater would come way down and skip Serregenti all together. We were very fortunate that two French brothers, Ben and Barnie, walked into the camp site that we are staying at and were looking to get into the crater.  We hired a car together and spent the day there today.  Every tourist that we have spoken to from around here is complaining that Tanzania and Kenya are way too expensive and they will rather go and spend their dollars in Botswana and Zambia!!  So watch out Tanzania and Kenya you may have to re-look at your fee structure.  Having said that the crater was very full of tourists, hundreds of them and as someone who is allergic to crowds I won’t be back there in a hurry.  But the natural beauty and the wild life was really special.  We saw a pride of lions just before we started our decent into the crater and lots of huge herds of buffalo, very few elephants and we were also lucky enough to watch a cheetah for about 10 minutes.  (with 25 other safaris vehicles!!) 
After we arrived back and we were dropped off back at our tent I discovered that my cell phone was missing, so Larry and I took off to find the driver, no luck and as we got back to the camp site so the vehicle arrived to drop off my phone.  There are some honest people still around!
Tomorrow we plan to pack up our tent and head further west, we are hoping to get to Uganda and Lake Victoria,  where I believe motorbikes are allowed into the National Parks.  Amy has applied for our visas for Ethiopia and Sudan and we were told a wait of at least 15 days.  All the travelers that we have met coming from Kenya say that there is a hold up of a month at least for an Ethiopian visa so hopefully we will be lucky and get it quicker than that through the embassy in SA.
So not sure if we will have internet available for the next few days so won’t be able to BBM/SMS or update our blog regularly.  Hopefully we will be able to get back on line once we get to Kenya where we hope to visit Morny’s brother Bob near Mt Elgon, on our way to Nairobi.
S
 Traffic jam in the crater for cheetah!
 Picnic spot in the crater
 Bird life in crater was fantastic

 As were the buffalo
 Mistyy crater

 Our transport into the crater
Camping at Kudu Lodge