Thursday, March 31, 2011
31 March 2011
At one of the police check points we met with Yves again, the young Swiss guy we last saw on the Marsabit road and we travelled together. We did try the first camp site called the Sudan National Camp Site just as we came into Khartoum but there are 2000 Sudanese refuges from Libiya been housed there and it was like a mad house when we were there. Cost for that pleasure is $1 per night!!
We managed to get my bike welded again today so hopefully we will be on fair roads from now on and won't have this problem again. Light is fading fast and we have to put up a tent still and I would prefer to brave the showers with a little light. The manager of the camp was really funny when asked why so expensive he replied that it is the same price as in Europe and the States and Yves said but your facilities are disgusting, he honestly could not see that they are bad!! Not even going to check this, light getting too bad! Will try and get photos on later!
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
27 March 2011
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Sunday, 27 March 2011
The small town of Lalibela in Ethiopia is home to one of the world's most astounding sacred sites: eleven rock-hewn churches, each carved entirely out of a single block of granite with its roof at ground level. Were it not for these extraordinary churches, Lalibela would almost certainly be well off the tourist radar. A dusty rural town nestled into rolling countryside, Lalibela only recently received electricity. It has few motorized vehicles, no gas stations and no paved streets. Isolated from the modern world, the town goes about its business much as it has for several hundred years. Of Lalibela's 8-10,000 people, over 1,000 are priests. Religious ritual is central to the life of the town, with regular processions, extensive fasts, crowds of singing and dancing priests. This, combined with its extraordinary religious architecture and simplicity of life, gives the city of Lalibela a distinctively timeless, almost biblical atmosphere. History The town of Lalibela was originally known as Roha. It was renamed after the 12th-century King Lalibela, who commissioned these extraordinary churches. Lalibela was a member of the Zagwe dynasty, which had seized the Ethiopian throne around 1000 AD. When his rivals began to increase in power, Lalibela sought the support of the powerful Ethiopian Orthodox Church by building the churches in this small town. King Lalibela's goal was to create a New Jerusalem for those who could not make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land (and to create a sacred city to rival powerful Axum, with its Ark of the Covenant). According to some reports, he had been to the Holy Land himself and was inspired by what he saw. But the king made no attempt to copy the churches of the Holy Land; in fact, Lalibela's sacred architecture could not be more unique. The churches of Lalibela were not constructed — they were excavated. Each church was created by first carving out a wide trench on all four sides of the rock, then painstakingly chiseling out the interior.
The largest church is 40 feet high, and the labor required to complete such a task with only hammers and chisels is astounding. Popular legend has it that angels came every night to pick up where the workmen had left off. One of the churches, Bet Maryam, contains a stone pillar on which King Lalibela wrote the secrets of the buildings' construction. It is covered with old cloths and only the priests may look on it. King Lalibela's project for gaining the church's favor had two unexpected results: the creation of a holy place of unparalleled beauty and the king's conversion to a religious life. After laboring for 20 years, he abdicated his throne to become a hermit, living in a cave and eating only roots and vegetables. To this day, Ethiopian Christians regard King Lalibela as one of their greatest saints. The churches have been in continuous use since they were built in the 12th century. The first Europeans to see these extraordinary holy sites were Portugese explorers in the 1520s, one of whom noted in his journal that the sights were so fantastic, he expected readers of his descriptions would accuse him of lying. What to See The roofs of the Lalibela churches are level with the ground and are reached by stairs descending into narrow trenches. The churches are connected by tunnels and walkways and stretch across sheer drops. The interior pillars of the churches have been worn smooth by the hands of supplicating worshippers. The rock-cut churches are simply but beautifully carved with such features as fragile-looking windows, moldings of various shapes and sizes, different forms of crosses, swastikas (an Eastern religious motif) and even Islamic traceries. Several churches also have wall paintings. Each church has its own resident monk who appears in the doorway in colorful brocade robes. Holding one of the church's elaborate processional crosses, usually made of silver, and sometimes a prayer staff, these monks are quite happy to pose for pictures. Some sport incongruously modern sunglasses with their splendid ensemble. There are 11 rock-cut churches at Lalibela, the most spectacular of which is Bet Giorgis (St. George's). Located on the western side of the cluster of churches, it is cut 40 feet down and its roof forms the shape of a Greek cross. It was built after Lalibela's death (c.1220) by his widow as a memorial to the saint-king. It is a magnificent culmination of Lalibela's plans to build a New Jerusalem, with its perfect dimensions and geometrical precision. Unlike some of the other churches, St. George's is plain inside. A curtain shields the Holy of Holies, and in front of it usually stands a priest displaying books and paintings to visitors. In the shadows of one fo the arms of the cruciform church is its tabot, or copy of the Ark of the Covenant. One explorer was allowed to open it and found it empty. No one was able to tell him what happened to its contents. [1] In the "Northern Group" across the main road from St. George, the most notable church is Beta Medhane Alem, home to the Lalibela Cross and believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world. It is thought to be a copy of St. Mary of Zion in Axum. Bete Medhane Alem is linked by walkways and tunnels to Beta Maryam (St. Mary's), possibly the oldest of the churches. In the east wall of the church is an array of geometric carved windows in a vertical line. From the bottom up is: a Maltese cross in a square; a semi-circle shape like that on the Axum stelae; a Latin cross; and a simple square window. The windows illuminate the Holy of Holies in which the church's copy of the Ark is placed. Other decorations include a Star of David combined with a Maltese cross, a Sun with a smiling human face flanked by eight-spoked wheels, Mary on a donkey accompanied by Joseph, and an Annunciation. Next to Beta Maryam is Beta Golgotha, known for its artwork which includes life-sized carvings of saints on the walls. It is also home to the tomb of King Lalibela, over which stands a gold-draped Ark. The Western group is completed by the Selassie Chapel and the Tomb of Adam.
RIP Bagu
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Thursday, March 24, 2011
From Larry & Sharon
We left the Oasis International Hotel early Saturday morning for our drive to the Bale Mountains. We were very pleasantly surprised that the road was a brand new road (Chinese built) for about 85km and lots of road works for the next 80km with bits of tar in between. The mountains are spectacular and we climbed to a height of 3600m and it started getting cooler all the time. We arrived at the Bale National Park and went to Dinsho Lodge, this was very disappointing, the lodge was fairly large and obviously someone has spent a lot of money there fairly recently but nothing has been maintained and nothing works!! One non working toilet for about 30 beds and two non-working showers, the geysers are there but no water. A very nice newly built sauna, also not working! The entire complex was dirty, floors not washed and lots of littler lying around. We were very disappointed with the facilities but were pleasantly surprised at the amount of game in the actual reserve. There is a small fenced in section around the camp site, about 100 hectares, with lots of Mountain Nyala, melenic bushbuck, bohor reedbuck and warthogs. These are all tame and come close to the camp all the time.
The bracket on my pannier, where is was welded had broken on the rough roads and we went into the village to find a welder and get this repaired. Ethiopia, like most other African countries has problems with electricity and the welder could only sort out later that night once the power was back on. I just hope that this repair lasts until we get to Europe.
No-one is allowed to move around the park without a guide and so we had to hire a local guide and we decided to hire horses to get into the main section of the park. The horses are tiny and just plod along at a steady pace, we did try to trot at one stage but not a good idea with a broken rib. The park is totally undeveloped and there are lots of animals and all very tame. This appears to be one of the few areas in Africa where poaching is not a major problem. The area was very pretty with lots of open grasslands and also some large forests.
There is also a program run by a young Ethiopian (worked at Shamwari for a few months) for the Ethiopian wolf, we decided that we would not go to the area where the wolves are because of the bad roads and it would take about 3 hours there and 3 hours back for an hour walk.
We left the Bale mountains on Monday morning to get to Addis Ababa late that evening so that we could apply for the Schengen visa on Tuesday morning. We arrived in Addis late Monday evening, after riding 403 km in 8 hours, and checked into Wims Holland House. Here we met two Bristish couples, Rory and Lucy and Ven and Anita and we spent a couple of very pleasant evenings with them. We hope that we will see both couples in South Africa later this year.
Tuesday morning we were up bright and early and walked to the Swedish Embassy, we spent the morning on the pavement, from 9am until 12.30 when the visa application section closes. At about 12.40 we were suddenly shown into the Embassy and a lady had a look at our documentation and told us we needed to pay the visa fee and be back there at 3pm for an interview. We rushed around getting the money paid to the right people and were back by 14.30 and went straight in for the interview. One form missing and sorry we can't do your application. After lots of backwards and forwards they agreed to take the application forms and let us know when it would be ready.
In the meantime we decided to apply for our Egyptian visa, but they won't do anything until they see the Ethiopian visa which is in our passports at the Swedish Embassy!!
We have just been phoned to say that the Schengen visa is ready on condition that we extend our travel insurance for one month and we can collect it this afternoon - fantastic service at the end of the day. The red tape with all the visas has been exhausting, but we should be near the end of visa applications now.
Friday 25
We collected our Schengen visas yesterday, and immediately went to the Egyptian embassy, where we left our passports. This normally takes 4 days, but the kind and efficient lady said we could collect them today, at 1 pm, god willing!! So, tomorrow we will probably leave for Dessie, further north, en route to Lalibela. From there to Bahir Dar and lake Tana, then to Sudan, probably in about a week's time.
The British couples left yesterday, both heading south. In the meantime, the other 3 (Harry, Linda and Angela) on bikes arrived in Addis, and are also frantically busy applying for visas, but I think we will probably be ready to leave a few days before them, so will carry on and maybe see them ahead. We are also looking at the possibility of taking a ferry from Egypt or Israel, to Greece or Italy, to avoid some of the current problem areas in the Middle East.
Internet is difficult at the moment, so will continue to update whenever possible!
L&S
Saturday, 19 March - Thursday, 24 March 2011
Larry & Sharon travelled from Awassa to Bale Mountains National Park on Saturday, 19 March
Sunday, 20 March - they went horse trekking in the Park. Seems that’s what the Park’s niche market is as well as lots of game & birding.
I thought the backsides will be fine - but apparently horses are harder on some anatomical parts than bikes…!
Facts as taken from http://www.realethiopia.com:
Bale Mountains National Park is an area of high altitude plateau that is broken by numerous spectacular volcanic plugs and peaks, beautiful alpine lakes and rushing mountain streams that descend into deep rocky gorges on their way to the lowlands below.
As you ascend into the mountains you will experience changes in the vegetation with altitude, from juniper forests to heather moorlands and alpine meadows, which at various times of year exhibit an abundance of colourful wildflowers.
Bale Mountains National Park is the largest area of Afro-Alpine habitat in the whole of the continent. It gives the visitor opportunities for unsurpassed mountain walking, horse trekking, scenic driving and the chances to view many of Ethiopia's endemic mammals, in particular the Mountain Nyala and Ethiopian Wolf, and birds, such as the Thick-billed Raven, Wattled Ibis, Blue-winged Goose, and Rouget's Rail.
The climate of the Bale Mountains, as is to be expected in a high altitude mountainous region, is characterized by a high rainfall and periods of damp cloudy weather, interspersed with periods of sparkling sunny weather with brilliant blue skies. The climatic year can be roughly divided into three seasons -the dry, early wet and wet seasons. The dry season is usually from November to February. Very little rain is experienced and temperatures on the clear sunny days may rise to as high as nearly 30? centigrade. Nights are star-filled, clear and cold, usually with heavy ground frosts. Temperatures may fall between minus 6? and minus 15? centigrade in the main peak area of the Park. This is the best period to visit the National Park, especially for walking and horse trekking in the high mountain area. The vegetation can get very dry in the dry season, and fires must then be very carefully tended.
I feel less worried about them when I “looked” at their accommodation. Extracted from http://www.wimshollandhouseaddis.nl:
Wim' s Holland House is the most sociable (Dutch) place in Addis Abeba. Wim' s Holland House is not only a sociable bar but offers much more, such as a restaurant/ pizzeria, campsite for overlanders (where he offers different services; from a hot shower till total car care, document accompaniment; carnet, visas etc.), washing clothes, broadband internet service and ofcourse Wim always can serve you with a Dutch shooter or a typical Dutch snack; bitterballen! Depending on the time there is even pea soup or herring! Wim' s visitors are varied. All ages and nationalities are welcome and are often represented!
Update for Larry & Sharon: - I had a lovely conversation with John Melchior from US and he & Loretta follow your travels and send lots of love & prayer!
Bagu decided to see what's on the otherside of the fence and got cut, visited the vet and he's fine. I think between Bagu, Cleo, Ginger S & Johan they do a good job looking after Ralph :-)
Friday, March 18, 2011
Pics
Our bedrooms,and bikes being worked on, at Koket hotel,Moyale
Hows this for ant technology??? Hi rise??
Oasis hotel, awassa
Monkeys in the city!
17 March, Awassa
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Pics
DeepEnough???
Volcanic desert
The road ahead
Fast and dusty - and very uncomfortable!!!
End of the bad road - for the meantime!!!!