1 July 2011

1 July 2011 – Keetsmanhoop, Namibia
After Swakopmund we rode 30km to Walvis Bay, this short ride was through the golden desert that we had been expecting. There was a view point and a nice climb up one of the steep dunes and a good view of the desert, all the time a cold wind was blowing off the Atlantic Ocean. Once in Walvis we encountered the same problem as in Swakopmund with the school reunion and sports events that were taking place over the weekend. One place which was full of school kids directed us to a place called Photo Safaris, this proved to be a bonus as it was some of the nicest accommodation that we have stayed in, they had a full kitchen and so we rushed off to the local Spar and bought a tiny piece of lamb leg and all the veggies and had a wonderful roast dinner for a change.
The following morning when we woke it looked like we had had a shower of rain, but this was just the heavy fog which comes in every evening, very pleased that we had chosen not to camp and have everything sopping wet! We packed and where ready to leave while the fog was still fairly thick. The first section of the drive was on a very nice piece of tar and then the gravel road started, very hard, and easy riding. The desert was changing all the time and for at least an hour on the road we never saw another vehicle and only one springbuck. As we got closer to the mountainous area of the national park there were lots of overland type vehicles all with roof top tents. Mainly SA vehicles and lots of friendly waves. Once we got out of the national park and through the second mountain pass the gravel road just got worse and worse until we were eventually riding at about 20km/ hour, the road was in a shocking condition, very corrugated and lots of loose gravel and sand. We arrived at the Tropic of Capricorn and stopped to take some photos, as we got off the bikes a 4x4 arrived with a South African family from Port Elizabeth (Navigator on the Wild Dogs Forum) and they told us that the road gets better as we get closer to Solitaire. It took us nearly 4 hours to ride the 80km to Solitaire. Once we got there we were told that there was no fuel but it was expected later that night. It had been hot the whole day so we decided to camp. Solitaire was an interesting place and Larry was salivating when we walked into the local bakery, they make about 150 large apple pies every day. We bought two slices and they were really good!! About 270 km, mostly on gravel, lots of it bad!
On Saturday, 1 July, we packed and left Solitaire midmorning, heading for Mariental, gravel road for the most past was good and we made good time to Mariental but once we arrived there the wind was blowing and there was nothing to keep us there so we decided to continue to Keetsmanhoop, all on tar road. This was the first time on the trip that we actually got cold we rode for about 2 hours really feeling the cold. We decided before even reached the town we were not going to camp and managed to find a reasonable BnB. That night it was extremely cold and we were both very glad to not be camping. 530 km, 170 on gravel
Our next destination was Ai Ais with about 170km on gravel road, and about 40 km on tar. Most of this road was good for the most of it but there were lots of ‘zink plaate’. A nice lunch spot was Canyon Roadhouse, with all sorts of old cars, and curiosities. We detoured off the road to Ai Ais to the main view point over the Fish River Canyon, really worth while going there. The camp site at Ai Ais has been very full with South African, lots have been interested in our bikes and our trip through Africa. Camping next to us tonight are a father and son both of BMW bikes touring Namibia. We also went for about a 2km hike up the gorge, this is the start of the Fish River Canyon hike which we would like to come back and do at some stage. The weather in the canyon has been fantastic and we used the hot baths which were very relaxing - it has been warm during the day and cool at night so the heat was welcome just before we jumped into the tent.
Internet is a problem, and we are finding it tough to update the blog. Will try in Springbok tomorrow, when we are back in SA!!! From there we should have a night in Lamberts Bay, or on the West Coast somewhere, then Cape Town, Garden Route, and hopefully home by mid July!!!