16 Feb 2011

6 pm, 16 Feb
We are in Singida – about 400 km South West of Arusha, en Route to Uganda. Tomorrow will be another long day – in fact they will all be long, until we get to Queen Victoria National Park, Uganda. We hope to stop somewhere on Lake Victoria, as we will be passing to the South, and then West of Lake Vic.
Today was another riding day. We left Karatu – the last town before entering Serengeti and Ngorongoro Conservation area. We left there at about 10 am this morning, and rode hard until nearly 5.30 pm. This was only 320 km, but 160 of those were on rough gravel roads, mainly along the construction of a new tarr road, so at times very rough, muddy and wet. Other times we rode along on the new hardpack surface, which was great. Another quick roadside picnic was today’s meal, although we should eat again tonight. I think we both enjoyed the riding, even on the bad roads, as one could actually ride, as opposed to just sitting steering the bike. It was also great to be moving again, knowing that the unknown is waiting. We have been warned that this is a non tourist area, with few facilities catering to tourists, so we are at the Stanley motel, a local hotel, in Singida. It seems that a lot of overland / travelers make use of these local hotels / guesthouses along the way. Our room is clean, tidy, has a tv, and en suite shower and toilet – although with no water at the moment – that will hopefully be back later. We pay less for a room tonight, than we paid for camping last night!
Tanzania is a disappointment in many ways. We have seen thousands of Landcruiser and landrover safari vehicles, all filled with international tourists, from far and wide. The campsite was noisy, with overland trucks and groups arriving and leaving at all hours, and we find that campsite etiquette is non existent. The entire local population sees money everywhere, and everything is geared to milk the foreigners to the hilt. Along the roads, one sees traditional Masai, with blankets and spears, ear rings etc. Until you realize that they are all standing next to the road, or with the scrawny cattle, waiting to pounce on any tourist that might feel the need to take a picture. The whole thing felt very false, and didn’t leave a great taste. As with the whole thing about park fees, vehicle hire, etc. But I believe the Himba in Northern Namibia are doing the same thing now.
We passed a strange fellow, pushing a 3 wheel baby pushchair today. So, we turned to say hello, and it turned out to be Richard Goodhead, from Cape Town, who left from Cape Agulhas in October, and has run / walked all the way here, to get to Kilimanjaro!!! www.richardsrun.co.za Have a look! When we stopped to say hello, he was in the process of talking to Radio Jacaranda in SA - so he told them – live on air, that he had just met Larry and Sharon from SA!!! He plans to run the Kili marathon, and then climb it as well. Fortunately, he only had about 160km to go!!! Nearly there. Some days he did up to 70 km per day! At 12 today, he had already done 40 km. Fit fellow!
We were amazed at how the countryside has changed in the 3 days since we last we went up to Karatu. Everything now has a green tinge, although still very short. The rain over the last few days has made a big difference, and it seems as though we will be riding in more rain soon, as it builds up every day.
The bad news is that we never saw the damn mountain!! It has been extremely hazy, with a lot of cloud around, which kept Kili well hidden. Oh well, its only a big lump of rock.
Ngorongoro was great, worthwhile, even at the cost, as it is one of those once in a lifetime things that one must do. The game was very tame, the birdlife was good, the grass was still short, so one could see the game easily. Lots of buff, hyaena, wildebeest, gazelle, zebra. 2 prides of lion, 1 cheetah, a couple of ele, rhino in the distance – so I suppose 4 of the big 5 in a day, plus hippo. The road down, and up from the crater was interesting, with a steep escarpment, although the views were obscured to a large extent, by haze and misty clouds. Thanks, Albie, for helping to arrange the safari vehicle.!
We have just got back to our room after supper, which was on a small veranda outside to hotel. The streets vibrant, people, Piki-pikis, (motor bikes ) 4 x 4’s, red, green, blue florescent lights, music, etc. The food was good – steak and chips – how unusual for L&S!!! Just before the meal was served, our waiter arrived with a small bottle of handwash, a bowl, and a kettle of warm water – all to wash our hands!!! Not sure if this is because we are so dirty from our days riding?? The price even included a banana and a slice of mango. Price?? – 19000 Tan shilling - about R90 or 14 $, for steak and chips, 2 beers, and a 1.5 l bottle of water.
We now realize are in true Africa. A few days ago, riding towards Arusha and Karatu, we saw dead genets on the road. Near Karatu, a Hyeana had been killed by a car. In the campsite, we could hear hyeana at night. Now, we are out of tourist areas completely, and experiencing the real Africa, although there is still no wildlife, and people and villages along the roads, it is not the same as in Malawi. Here, the people obviously do not see many tourists, and the calls of money, money along the roads are not there.
L